Skincare Routine for Oily and Acne-Prone Skin 

In my 15 years as a dermatologist, one of the most common frustrations I hear from patients is, “I’ve tried everything for my oily skin, but nothing works.“ They arrive at my clinic feeling defeated, having spent a small fortune on products that either do nothing or make their acne worse. The key to managing oily skin is not about finding one magic product, but about building a simple, consistent routine based on science, not hype.

Managing oily skin is like tending to a delicate garden. If you strip it too aggressively, it fights back by producing more oil. If you neglect it, weeds (acne) take over. The goal is to create balance. It is about cleansing correctly, hydrating intelligently, and protecting your skin from harm.

This guide is built on the advice I give my patients every day at my Clear Skin clinic in Pune. We will walk through seven essential, evidence-backed steps to help you control shine, reduce breakouts, and achieve clear, healthy skin.

Quick Facts: Oily & Acne-Prone Skin

• Oily skin produces excess sebum due to overactive sebaceous glands

• Excess oil + dead skin cells = clogged pores and acne

• Over-washing or skipping moisturiser can worsen oiliness

• Consistency matters more than using multiple products

• Most OTC acne treatments take 8–12 weeks to show visible results

Oily skin occurs when the sebaceous glands produce more oil than required. While sebum helps protect the skin barrier, excess oil mixes with dead skin cells and blocks pores. This creates the ideal environment for acne-causing bacteria to grow, resulting in blackheads, whiteheads, and inflamed pimples.

Hormonal fluctuations, genetics, stress, incorrect skincare products, and diet all contribute to this condition.

1. Cleansing: The Foundation of Oily Skin Care

The first and most crucial step is cleansing, but it is also where most people go wrong. The purpose of washing your face is to remove the daily build-up of excess oil (sebum), dirt, pollutants, and bacteria. When this mixture sits on your skin, it clogs pores and leads directly to blackheads and pimples.

A common mistake I see is over-washing. Patients with very oily skin sometimes wash their face three, four, or even five times a day, thinking they are helping. In reality, they are making the problem worse.

Here’s why: Your skin has a natural protective layer called the acid mantle. When you wash too aggressively or too often, you strip this barrier. Your skin panics, thinking it’s dehydrated, and its response is to produce even more oil to compensate. This is known as rebound oiliness.

My clinical advice is simple:

• Wash your face twice a day: once in the morning to remove oil produced overnight and once at night to clear away the day’s grime.
• Use a gentle, gel-based cleanser specifically formulated for oily skin.
• Never scrub your face. Use your fingertips to apply the cleanser in gentle, circular motions.

2. How to Choose a Cleanser That Actually Works

The cleanser aisle can be overwhelming. To simplify your choice, look for products with specific, proven ingredients designed to tackle the root causes of acne.

Look for these ingredients:

• Salicylic Acid: This is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) and my top recommendation for oily skin. It is oil-soluble, meaning it can penetrate deep into your pores to dissolve the mixture of oil and dead skin cells that causes clogs.
• Tea Tree Oil: Known for its natural antibacterial properties, tea tree oil can help reduce the acne-causing bacteria on the skin’s surface.
• Neem & Turmeric: These traditional Indian ingredients are fantastic for their anti-inflammatory benefits. They help soothe the redness and irritation that often accompany breakouts.

A Word of Caution: If a new cleanser causes stinging, burning, or significant redness, stop using it immediately. Your skin is telling you that the formulation is too harsh. Skincare should feel comfortable. According to the AA of Dermatology Association, using gentle products is key to preventing skin irritation.

3. The Golden Rule: Why Oily Skin Needs a Moisturiser

This is the most common myth I have to bust in my clinic: “My skin is oily, so I don’t need a moisturiser.” This is incorrect and counterproductive.

Here is a simple way to understand it. Think of your skin cells like bricks. The “mortar” holding them together is made of natural oils and fats called lipids. When you cleanse, you wash away some of this mortar. If you do not replace it with a moisturiser, your skin barrier becomes weak, allowing moisture to escape and irritants to get in.

As a defence mechanism, your dehydrated skin will overproduce oil to try to seal the cracks. This makes you shinier and more prone to breakouts.

The solution is to moisturise wisely. Choose a product that is:

• Lightweight and Oil-Free: Look for gel or lotion formulas.
• Non-Comedogenic: This is a crucial term. It means the product has been tested and is proven not to clog pores.

Using the right moisturiser every day helps regulate your skin’s oil production and strengthens its protective barrier, leading to healthier, more balanced skin over time.

4. Sunscreen: Your Best Defence Against Acne Marks

In India, many people with oily skin avoid sunscreen because they feel it is thick, greasy, and causes breakouts. However, skipping sun protection is one of the worst things you can do for acne-prone skin.

Sun exposure does two things to worsen acne:

1. It increases inflammation, making existing pimples redder and more painful.
2. It stimulates pigment production, which turns the red mark left behind by a pimple into a stubborn brown or black spot (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation).

The good news is that modern sunscreens are formulated specifically for oily skin.

Your sunscreen checklist:

• Choose a Gel-Based or Fluid Formula: These are lightweight and absorb quickly without leaving a greasy film.
• Look for “Oil-Free” and “Non-Comedogenic”.
• Insist on Broad-Spectrum Protection (UVA + UVB).
• Use SPF 30 or higher.

Apply sunscreen every single day as the last step in your morning routine, even if you are staying indoors, as UVA rays can penetrate window glass.

5. Exfoliation: Less is More for Healthy Skin

Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells from the surface of your skin. This is important because a build-up of dead cells can clog pores and make your skin look dull. However, like cleansing, this is an area where being too aggressive can cause major damage.

I see many patients who use harsh, gritty physical scrubs every day. This is like taking sandpaper to your face. It creates micro-tears in the skin, damages the protective barrier, and triggers inflammation, which can lead to more acne.

My Professional Advice:

• Exfoliate only once every 7 to 10 days.
• Choose chemical exfoliants over physical scrubs. Products containing gentle concentrations of glycolic acid (AHA) or salicylic acid (BHA) are far more effective and less irritating. They work by dissolving the “glue” that holds dead skin cells together.

Gentle, infrequent exfoliation will improve your skin’s texture and reduce breakouts without compromising its health.

6. Makeup Tips for Breakout-Prone Skin

Makeup does not necessarily cause acne, but the wrong kind of makeup certainly can. If you wear makeup, it is vital to choose products that will not sabotage your skincare efforts.

Follow these simple rules:

• Always read the label. Just like with your moisturiser and sunscreen, your foundation, concealer, and powders should be oil-free and non-comedogenic.
• Clean your brushes regularly. Makeup brushes are a breeding ground for bacteria. Wash them at least once a week.
• Never sleep in your makeup. This is non-negotiable. At night, your skin goes into repair mode. Leaving a layer of makeup on traps oil and dirt, leading to guaranteed breakouts. Use a gentle cleanser to remove it thoroughly.

7. The Hands-Off Policy: Why You Must Not Pop Pimples

I know how tempting it is. You see a pimple with a whitehead, and every instinct tells you to squeeze it. In my 15 years of practice, I can tell you that the worst acne scars I see are not from the acne itself, but from patients picking and popping their pimples.

When you squeeze a pimple, you are creating a wound. You might get some of the pus out, but you are also pushing a significant amount of bacteria and inflammatory material deeper into the skin. This worsens the infection, makes the pimple last longer, and dramatically increases the risk of permanent scarring.

What to do instead:

• Apply a spot treatment: Use a product containing salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide directly on the pimple to help it heal faster.
• Consult a dermatologist: For persistent or deep, painful acne (cysts), do not try to manage it at home. A dermatologist can offer effective treatments, including professional extractions done in a sterile environment to prevent scarring.

Benzoyl Peroxide: This is a powerful ingredient used in many acne treatments. Benzoyl Peroxide works by killing bacteria that cause acne, which is often responsible for inflaming skin pores.

It’s effective against all kinds of acne lesions (blackheads, whiteheads, and big red pimples). It is available in various concentrations, with higher doses being more potent but also more drying to the skin.

Salicylic Acid: Known for its ability to dissolve dead skin cells and oils that clog pores, Salicylic acid is a type of beta-hydroxy acid. It works by exfoliating the skin and helping to clear out clogged pores, leading to fewer breakouts.

Salicylic acid is particularly effective for blackheads and whiteheads because it breaks down the materials that block pores.

Glycolic Acid and Other Hydroxy Acids: These acids belong to the alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) family and are known for their exfoliating properties. Glycolic acid helps in the gentle peeling of the skin, which promotes the regeneration of new skin cells.

By removing the outermost layer of dead cells, glycolic acid, and other AHAs can improve skin texture and tone, thereby reducing the appearance of scars and acne marks.

When using OTC acne treatments, it is important to manage expectations and understand that these products generally take 2-3 months to show noticeable results. Consistent use is critical, as intermittent application can reduce efficacy. During the first few weeks, some people may experience a worsening of their acne, a phenomenon known as the “purge” phase where the skin is adjusting to the new treatment.

It is also essential to monitor how your skin reacts to these treatments. Some side effects might include dryness, redness, and peeling, particularly with potent ingredients like benzoyl peroxide and high-concentration AHAs.

If these symptoms are mild, they are usually manageable with good moisturizers and gentle skincare practices. However, if side effects are severe, reducing the frequency of application or consulting with a dermatologist might be necessary.

1. Can oily skin really be controlled, or is it permanent?

Oily skin cannot be permanently changed because it is influenced by genetics and hormones. However, it can be very effectively controlled with the right skincare routine, suitable products, and professional guidance. Most patients see a noticeable reduction in oiliness and acne within 6–8 weeks of consistent care.

2. Should I use a moisturiser if I have oily and acne-prone skin?

Yes, absolutely. Skipping moisturiser can make oily skin worse. When skin becomes dehydrated, it produces more oil to compensate. Using a lightweight, oil-free, non-comedogenic moisturiser helps balance oil production and keeps the skin barrier healthy.

3. How long do acne treatments take to show results?

Most over-the-counter acne treatments take 8 to 12 weeks to show visible improvement. In the first few weeks, acne may temporarily worsen due to a “purging phase,” which is normal. Consistency and patience are key for long-term results.

4. Does sunscreen cause acne in oily skin?

No, sunscreen does not cause acne if you choose the right formulation. Gel-based, oil-free, non-comedogenic sunscreens are specifically designed for oily and acne-prone skin. Daily sunscreen use is essential to prevent acne marks, pigmentation, and premature skin damage.

5. When should I consult a dermatologist for oily and acne-prone skin?

You should consult a dermatologist if acne is painful, persistent, leaving scars, or not improving after 2–3 months of regular skincare. Professional evaluation helps identify the root cause and ensures personalised treatment for faster and safer results. At Clear Skin Clinic, acne treatments are supervised by Dr. Dhanraj Chavan, Consultant Dermatologist with over 15 years of experience.